Goodbye Cambodia

Tuesday Februray 12th

Actual transfer to Bangkok today. It follows the standard pattern, chaotic start, with many more people involved than is necessary (too many cooks...) followed by an efficient middle, followed by chaos at the border, followed by a journey that could have been done quicker but is deliberately slowed so that the arrival is later than it could be. (In this case our advertised non-stop trip from the border to Bangkok had a 20 minute stop at a motorway service station just because we were making good time). I think in Thailand at least, the buses tacographs are checked to make sure they don't speed, but even so we were being overtake by motor scooters on dual carriageways. At least the Thailand leg of the trip passed quickly by playing word games with a few girls from Munster and an Israeli chap.

As Cambodia is the first country I have fully visited I'll finish today with a few comments. It may be the poorest country in SE Asia, but its moving fast. To be honest I reckon its a bit like Ireland in the 70s. OK we didn't have people starving in the streets, or a load of landmine victims (and these were noticable), but it is a long way behind their neighbours. However with the proper application of external money, which it looks like they are getting, they could catch up quite quickly. They seem to be spending a fortune on education, which ultimately is how we solved our problems. Most kids seem to go to school. There were large schools everywhere we went. Even the older people like Li the tuk-tuk driver are learning new stuff all the time. If anything they seem to be more focussed on the tourist than Thailand. They know where their money is coming from (they were very proud that they passed 2 million international visitors last year).

I think the security situation here is not as bad as it is painted. I guess it is probably improving year on year, so when you read reports they are already out of date. Every year more of the country opens up to tourists, and as I said they do know where their bread is buttered (although the bread usually isn't) so the authorities, and the locals, are all co-operating to make things safer. Still I was slightly more wary here about being on my own, it was harder to leave your bag somewhere for the day, or even on the bus while you got off at the toilet stop. Its easier when there are two or more to take turns.

My only complaint, and its not really a complaint, is that the prices were higher than I expected. But they have to make money I guess. Interestingly it is the first time I've ever been penalised for being a Diet Coke drinker. I guess sugar cane is cheap here, artifical additives aren't.

If I were going back though I'd do things slightly differently. I'd probably go in November, when the water levels are higher, as Angkor will be more spectacular. I'd hire bikes to see it at my own pace, and I'd do a 7 day ticket, but take a day or two off in the middle. If I were going for the first time again (which I can't do - but some of you might) I'd save Angkor Wat for day 2 and allow a build up. I'd spend less time in Phnom Penh, you could do the 4 main sights in a day if you timed it right, and I'd probably fly in or out of the country, to save some time.