In the daylight

Wednesday 2nd April

I got up and went out after a very disappointing breakfast (apparently they don't really got for breakfast over here, which is disappointing for those like me who like to abuse the buffet, and yet you pay extra for this poor choice).

I walked towards the centre of the city and discovered that it was only 5 blocks away from the hotel. It seemed a bit more alive in the daylight. It also seems a lot more modern. I guess the lack of lighting last night made it look older, but I guess having the big tall towers with low lighting is good for the environment so fair play to Santiago for that. Also I realised that the dodgy areas I saw last night were in fact not run down towers, but new ones under construction.

Anway I walked to the main square, Plaza de Armas, and then around the various pedestrianised shopping streets that branch off it. I wouldn't say that Santiago Centre is a great shopping experience, but it seems like you can get most things there. Interestingly none of the main brand name shops seem to have a presence, although the fast food outlets do. Although the free map I got at the airport had about 20 starbucks marked on it, and I never saw one, so I guess they've gone again. The international banks seem to have some presence as well, judging by some bank logos (Banc Edwards logo looks a lot like Citibanks). From a product point of view some brands are present, some aren't. There is no problem getting Cokes or Sony but I haven't seen some food brands that are everywhere else. And there is defintiely no problem getting Pharmacy stuff, there seem to be more Chemists than any other type of shop. Either a lot of things are prescribed here, or its an indication of what we will end up like if we ever deregulate pharmacies.

I headed back to the Plaza to look at some of the historic buildings that border it. Here my lack of Spanish was first shown up. As I was sitting there deciding on whether or not to go into a museum, a guy came up and tried to strike up a conversation. I think i got out my name was Gavin and I was Irish, before the conversation stalled.

I headed off to do a touristy thing, get the funicular to San Cristobal. This is a hill overlooking Santiago. In Ireland it would be called a mountain, but compared to the Andes, which can just about be seen through the smog, this is only a dot. This is the site of a big shrine, and a statue of Mary, where the Pope said mass in 1984. So its kind of like the Papal Cross, except without the empty cider bottles.

And it is a few hundred metres above the city and it gives a good overview of the sprawl that is Santiago, and if there was no smog the mountains beyond. I was helped by a friendly information guide, who spoke some English, and explained that Santiago was in fact 3 different cities, Santiago, Provendcia, and Las Condes, all of which are joined together. The Lonely Planet neglected to mention this which is why its map covers totally different areas to the free maps the tourist board gives out.

The other good thing about this was I did get to hear some English speakers again, as there was a tour bus of Americans around. As it was approaching siesta time, I headed back to the hotel, where conveniently the football was on again (Arsenal v Pool), so I watched that. Although when Chelsea went 1 up in the second match (on delay) I decided that it was time to get out again, I didn't want to waste the whole afternoon. So I headed to an internet cafe, where I discovered that they had lost, and I had missed it. I'd have enjoyed seeing the two goals go in against them.

I looked around the centre of the city for dinner, but there wasn't much choice. There were many places open, but if you discount the big chains like McDs and KFC, there wasn't much choice. Almost all the local cafes serve big meat things like bugers and hot dogs covered in all sorts of sauces. (OK there are a few veggie places and so on, but with having been in a veggie place already this week, thanks Paul, I couldn't take another one). I could have gone to my own hotel which for some reason (being the owner) serves only Indian food.

After dinner all the local internet cafes shut down, and I couldn't find a decent bar (or any bar) so I ended up back at the hotel watching some rubbish film on TV.

I need to pay more attention to the Lonely Planet, which altough doesn't mention Provencida, does mention that all the action in the evenings is out in the suburbs.